Long Neck Village Ban Huay Sua Tao: A Deep Dive into a Living Culture

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Long Neck Village Ban Huay Sua Tao is a small refugee camp located near Maehongson in Northern Thailand very close to the border with Myanmar.

A Sanctuary Born of Conflict and Resilience

Long Neck village Ban Huai Seau Tao is more than a tourist destination; it’s a testament to human resilience. Situated near the border with Myanmar, this small community serves as a refugee camp for the Karenni (Red Karen) people. These individuals, members of subgroups like the Padaung and Kayan, fled violence and persecution in their homeland, seeking a haven in Thailand. Understanding this foundational history—their struggle for independence and their flight from war—is essential to appreciating the community’s presence and its enduring strength today.

Kayan Identity: A Name and Heritage Worth Protecting

The Kayan people, a Tibeto-Burman ethnic minority, are a diverse group with several subgroups. While they are often referred to as “Padaung,” particularly by outsiders, the Kayan residents in Mae Hong Son prefer to be called Kayan. This distinction is not merely linguistic; it is a point of pride and self-identification. This insight is crucial for visitors who wish to show respect for the community’s heritage and acknowledge them by their preferred name.

Confronting the “Human Zoo” Debate with Transparency

The ethical debate surrounding these villages is a critical part of the conversation. Critics sometimes label them “human zoos,” but the reality on the ground is more nuanced. As refugees, the Kayan are not legally allowed to seek regular work in Thailand, making tourism one of their primary sources of income. The entrance fee of 250 baht is transparently managed: 200 baht goes directly to the villagers, while 50 baht is used for essential public utilities and road maintenance. This economic reliance means that a visit, while carrying ethical weight, provides direct financial support to a community that has few other options for survival.

The Economics of Survival: Tickets and Handicrafts

The financial structure of the village is a model of direct support. Villagers have limited land for farming, so their livelihoods depend almost entirely on tickets and the sale of handicrafts. As such, the money you spend is not just a transaction; it is a vital contribution to a family’s daily needs. This direct link between tourism and community survival makes the act of visiting and purchasing a powerful statement of solidarity. The economic model is a testament to the community’s resourcefulness in the face of statelessness.

The Story of the Rings: Symbolism and Daily Life

The brass neck coils, a central feature of the Kayan Lahwi women, are a source of both fascination and academic inquiry. Often started on young girls around the age of ten, these coils are not a simple fashion choice. They symbolize beauty, tribal identity, and marital status, with the number and weight of the rings increasing over time. The rings, which can weigh up to 10 kilograms, are a lifelong commitment. While they don’t actually lengthen the neck, they create the illusion by depressing the collarbone and shoulders—a unique cultural practice that speaks volumes about their heritage.

An Authentic Experience, Not a Theme Park

Long Neck Village Ban Huay Sua Tao itself consists of a short pedestrian street lined with handicraft stalls, and bamboo and wooden huts behind on a hill slope. You aren’t encouraged to visit the private houses and when we went, vendors on the main street were friendly and chatty, there was certainly no hard sell. Kayan women have traditional looms in their shops so you can see them weaving the sarongs and scarves that they offer for sale.

There is a bulletin board around the entrance and it shows messages in English from the villagers to visitors as follows. This village is not a theme park but a place where people spend their daily lives.

We welcome you as a guest in our village, but as that you respect that it is a village where everybody carries on their daily life. It is not a specially built theme park and as such you should not leave littler or walk into peoples’ houses without invitation.
The people of Huay Sua Tao are used to visitors and are happy to pose for photos, but please ask first. It would be a good gesture to purchase from their shop in return.
The girls who wear the rings, in particular, are often happy to speak to a few visitors to the best of their ability. Please use discretion when it comes to asking personal questions.

Crafts, Conversations, and Community Support

The experience is an opportunity for genuine interaction. Kayan women work at traditional looms in their shops, weaving the vibrant sarongs and scarves offered for sale. They are often friendly and chatty, and are happy to pose for photos, but a gesture of respect—like asking for permission first or purchasing a small item—is appreciated. Many of the girls and women with the brass rings are open to speaking with visitors, providing a chance to learn about their lives and traditions firsthand. Your purchases directly support these families.

Navigating the Journey to a Picturesque Setting

Getting to the village is a straightforward journey from Mae Hong Son city, taking about 30 minutes. The asphalt road is well-maintained, passing through a colorful landscape with streams easily traversed by concrete crossings. The journey itself builds anticipation for the cultural encounter. Upon arrival, the well-organized entrance and clear signage guide visitors, making the logistics of the trip simple and stress-free.

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